In further proof of the fine soil of this Upper Country, we give here
a communication from a highly intelligent gentleman of Wausau, descriptive
of:
MARATHON COUNTY
Marathon county is bounded on the North by the
State Line; East by Oconto; South by Portage, and West by Clark, Chippewa
and La Pointe. It was organized February 9th, 1850. The County Seat is
at Wausau: Area 6048 square miles. Its surface is gently undulating --
sufficient to carry off the water, leaving no swamps but, what are susceptible
of the highest state of cultivation; and no inclinations so abrupt whose
surface may not be turned with the farmer's plow and traversed with his
cart.
The Wisconsin River, one of the noblest of nature's streams,
rises in the Northern part of the County, receiving its waters from a multitude
of silvery lakes, and meanders in nearly a South course, through the center
of the County into Portage, and empties its waters into the Mississippi,
near Prairie du Chien. Its principal tributaries in the County, coming
in on the East are Prairie, Pine, Trapp and Eau Claire: on the West, Big
Eau Plaine and Rib. These are large enough to float lumber and logs, and
mills are located on each except Prairie. Besides these, there are other
tributaries of equal importance further north, one the Eagle River, on
which is found the best pine in the State.
Along the immediate vicinity of the Rivers, the timber
is various. There is found pine, hemlock, sugar-maple, spruce, oak, elm,
birch, etc. embracing almost every variety that grows in the Western Country.
Either way from the Rivers, the hemlock generally disappears, and in many
instances the pine, also, and a beautiful growth of hard wood covers the
soil, such as sugar-maple, butternut, walnut, oak, elm, etc.
The soil throughout the County, is of the finest quality
for Agricultural purposes. Within two years, attention has been turned
to this branch of business, and the yield and quality have exceeded the
expectations of the farmer. In Towns 28, 29 and 30, Ranges 5, 6 and 7,
the land is mostly entered by Germans, who are doing a good business by
way of farming. Openings are being made throughout the County, and some
farms with a hundred acres of improvements have sprung into existence.
The Lumbering business is carried on quite extensively.
Within the County is annually manufactured about 62,000,000 feet: of which
Wausau turns out about 20,000,000, Rib River 5,000,000; above Wausau 10,000,000;
Eau Claire, 15,000,000; Mosinee (Little Bull) 6,000,000; Eau Plaine 8,000,000,
and Warren’s Mill, 3,000,0000.
The County at the present time is divided into three Towns:
Wausau, Mosinee and Eau Claire. The village of Wausau is the County Seat.
It has a beautiful location on the Wisconsin River, and now contains between
700 and 800 inhabitants. It is fast building up, and unlike many western
villages, the buildings are all good and substantial. As above stated,
at this place is manufactured about twenty million feet of lumber: of this
amount the mills of W. D. MCINDOE cut about one half. In addition to that,
he has now ready a mill for manufacturing siding, shingles, pickets, lath,
etc. Probably the best and safest water power in the State is found at
Wausau. The whole River may be used, and still be perfectly safe from high
water.
At LITTLE BULL FALLS is a newly laid out village, and
some fine buildings are now being built. This is the terminus of Steam
Boat Navigation from Stevens Point. The Company have a Boat building, to
run above the Falls to Wausau in connection with the one from Stevens Point,
which will be put on the River in the spring. A Road from Wausau to Portage
County line will he completed about the 1st of July next, which will equal
any of the best McAdamized Roads in the State.
In the County, is considerable Government Land yet to
be had at seventy-five cents per acre, and one dollar and twenty-five per
acre: though the entries for the past eight months have been extensive,
and nearly all by actual settlers, and for farming purposes.
A peculiar characteristic of the County is its general
healthfulness. The water is pure and soft, the atmosphere clear, and the
climate salubrious. No sudden changes from heat to cold, nor vice versa.
Winter weather is steady: spring comes and takes complete possession, and
winter yields without a struggle. No County holds out greater inducements
to actual settlers than this and none have greater prospects of becoming
a greet Agricultural County than Marathon.
April 2d, 1857.
Some of the most enterprising men in the State, located early near
Big Bull Falls, who by their energy and Capital, gave an impetus to business
there, and tended to develop the resources of the country, even sooner
than was done farther down. Some of the heaviest lumbering establishments
are in that region and good farms were opened above Wausau many years since.
These improvements have tended to draw attention that way; and at this
time the neighborhood of Wausau is known as an important locale in Central
Wisconsin, standing by itself, and having important commercial facilities
and improvement policies of its own. As a business Central of a vast interior
country of the State, it has projected thoroughfares, Rail Roads, &c.,
of its own, forming no dependencies on the lower part of this river. Within
a few months a most important scheme of the latter kind has been projected
-- a Rail Road from Lake Michigan at Sheboygan, via Appleton and New London,
direct to Wausau, and thence Northwesterly to an intersection of the Milwaukee
and Horicon Rail Road to Superior City. Here also, it is supposed, will
be an intersection of the Rail Road from Stevens Point to Ontonagon.
As the country settles, the vast territory of Marathon must be divided
up into other Counties; probably eight or ten in number, with a population
in a few years equal, or greater than that of as many now in any part of
the State.
Portage County, by a late Act of the Legislature setting off WOOD COUNTY,
on the South West, is reduced to the Constitutional limit, containing now
twenty-two townships. It is thirty miles in length, North and South, and
some twenty broad, East and West. The Southern and Eastern portions are
mostly openings, and well settled; the Northern and North-western portions
are mostly timbered containing considerable quantities of choice Government
lands still in market in all the Counties on the Wisconsin, and near the
river, there are good lands at the graduation price of SEVENTY-FIVE CENTS
per acre yet remaining unsold.
There is scarcely a foot of waste land in all Portage County: the few
marshes or swamps in it, are all susceptible of drainage, whereby they
may be made the best of plow-lands. -- PLOVER is the County Seat: STEVENS
POINT the most populous village: but we shall speak of these more at length
hereafter. This County is the most Central of the State; and in position,
soil, climate, and commercial advantage holds the first rank on the Upper
Wisconsin.
WOOD COUNTY has the same general remarks applicable, with the addition
that its Northwestern portion lies on the head waters of several streams,
as Mill Creek, Yellow River, and Black River, all of which rise from the
most beautiful spring brooks, and water several townships of the most charming
hard timbered lands in all this region. They are rapidly being settled
up with BONA FIDE FARMERS. GRAND RAPIDS is the County Seat; and with its
transcendent water power, and pushing population, is fast becoming a stirring,
prosperous town.
It seems hardly necessary to speak of the HEALTH of this part of the
State; that fact having passed into a proverb. But some observations will
be required on temperature and our winters. We shall not deny that we have
a cold country, nor attempt to compare it with Southern Illinois or Missouri
yet as a general proposition, we are prepared to maintain that our climate,
even in the depth of winter, is as agreeable in most respects, as that
of the Southern Countries named.
Our winters are fully inaugurated about the 10th to the 15th of November,
and with slight interludes continue from 10th to 20th of March. During
these sixteen weeks, the ground is generally covered with snow; with good
sleighing, and steady cold weather; all of which are found much more conducive
to health, pleasure, business and the success of Agricultural pursuits,
than the alternate thaws and freezes, mud and snow, rains and sleets, which
prevail one and two hundred miles further South. Our autumns are bland,
beautiful and mild through nearly all of October: Spring generally breaks
upon us at once -- the transit from winter to summer being short. The consequence
is that the vegetable kingdom, whether wild or under the hand of the cultivator,
changes the face of nature from the dearth of winter to the luxuriant growth
of spring, much quicker than in more temperate latitudes. Most of the fruits,
and all the grains of the Northern and Middle States, thrive well here.
A fair specimen of Dent Corn was raised in this village last year.
Our two last winters have been unusually severe, but not more so for
the latitude (44 degrees 40 min. N.) than it has throughout the Continent.
The Wisconsin usually breaks up, so that the rafting season begins in the
month of March; and before the river men get below Pointe Bas, the forests
are usually clothed with verdure.
Before proceeding to close our work with some brief account of the several
Villages on the Upper Wisconsin, we had intended to attempt a view of the
River in connection, from its source to Fort Winnebago. Having already
far exceeded the limits originally prescribed, this sketch must be very
short.
The Wisconsin has its principal source in LAC VIEUX DESERT; a sheet
of water some fifty miles in diameter, lying on the State Line in Town
42 N. Range 11 E. This its most easterly branch: it has many others further
south and west, all rising in small lakes, with which this part of the
State, and the upper part of Marathon County, abounds; and we suspect from
all the information we can gather, that this “Thousand Lake District,”
of Northern Wisconsin, will in a few years attract more attention than
any other portion -- more than almost any part of any North western State.
Abounding in extensive sugar groves, it is the old haunt -- has been so
for ages of the Indians: emphatically their home, while the surrounding
country, for hundreds of miles, was used only as a hunting ground.
But to the River: it flows over a. sandy bottom, with a gentle current,
in a volume lust sufficient for a small boat for some ninety miles, with
the interruption of a few inconsiderable rapids, to Grand Father Bull Falls,
where it meets with its first great interruption in a dam across its stream
of trap rock. In its descent from LAC VIEUX DESERT to these falls, several
important tributaries are received: on the East side, the first of note
are Little Eagle and Meadow Rivers, and Mercy Creek; Eagle River falls
in about thirty miles below the lake, and some fifty above Grand Father
Bull. On account of the extensive Pine forests skirting its banks, it is
a stream of much importance, already occupied and explored: although short,
its depth is good, offering, facilities for floating out the immense Pines.
This will be a main point between Wausau and Lac Vieux Desert, and have
a settlement the ensuing summer: some thirty miles farther down, on the
same side, comes in Pelican River, of about the same size as the. Eagle.
There is also Pine on this stream, but not equal in either quality or quantity
to that on the Eagle. Of the several streams coming in on the West side,
we have not sufficient data to speak.
The first fall of any note is GRAND FATHER BULL. The River has here
cut down through the greenstone trap rock, a depth of a hundred feet: the
fall is some 25 feet in all, affording an almost unrivaled water power.
It is not yet improved. The land in the vicinity is much of it very fair
for farming; a good share of Pine lands for lumbering. This fall is in
Town 33 N. R. 7 E: -- it will become a point for business --a town
site soon.
PRAIRIE River, a considerable tributary from the east, comes in about
16 miles below these falls, and near what are known as JENNY BULL FALLS.
A description of this point will be found on another page by A. WARREN,
Jr., who commenced the first improvement there in 1847.
A few miles below Jenny Bull comes in PINE RIVER, a considerable stream
from the east, on which a heavy lumbering business is done, and draining
an excellent farming country, towards its head.
TRAP RIVER also falls in from the East, a few miles above Big Bull.
The next descent brings us to WAUSAU, Big Bull Falls, in T. 29 N. R. 7
East. These falls are made by a range of granite about 30 feet high and
crossing the river North-easterly and South-westerly. This is one of the
most important points on the River -- a fall of some fifteen feet in one
fourth of a mile, creates an unsurpassed waterpower, already much improved.
The place being pretty fully described by other hands under the head of
Marathon County and Wausau, renders it unnecessary to say anything further
here.
RIB RIVER, a beautiful stream from the West, enters the Wisconsin about
two miles below Big Bull. With its tributary, Little Rib, it drains one
of the finest sugar. maple regions of first rate farming land in all this
Land District. It is already being occupied with, a hardy settlement of
Germans from Pittsburgh. But they have apparently only just entered onto
the edge of the fine land lying further to the Northwest. Just below the
mouth of the Rib, and on the East side, enters the BIG EAU CLAIRE, a fine
stream with heavy lumbering establishments on it, stretching its thousand
arms far to the East interlacing its branches with those of the EMBARRASS
which falls into the Wolf River; and watering an immense district of beautiful
sugar and other hard timbered lauds. Large quantities of these lie unentered
as yet, affording rare inducements to settlers. BULL JUNIOR enters a mile
and a half above LITTLE BULL Falls; which place we arrive at about 13 miles
below Wausau. This is the ugliest Rapid on the River for the Pilots the
fall is about 16 feet, all made through a narrow gorge in the rock, in
a distance of a quarter of a mile with a bottomless eddy at the foot, which
every raft essays infallibly to sound. This diving of the rafts renders
the running always dangerous, & never attempted at very high water.
Several men have been lost on this rapid. It makes one of the best water
powers on the River, improved with a fine mill, put up by Messrs. CATE
& DESERT. Nothing will prevent this from becoming an important point.
[See the descriptions of Little Bull and Mosinee further on.] This being
the head of steamboat navigation, we shall here take the Northerner
to Stevens Point -- distance 36 miles.
In smooth water, under steam and a strong current, we are descending
the noble stream swiftly we continue to note the various points:
At six miles distance, the BIG Aux Plaines (probably Big Eau Plaines),
a fine stream, pours in from the West: there are fine mills upon it with
a fair quantity of good pine; and its head waters have, as usual the excellent
hard timbered lands which are found on all the heads of these tributaries
of the Wisconsin. Just opposite, on the East, is WARRENSBURGH, with the
splendid steam mill of A. Warren, Jr. Three miles further down, on the
East side, is the large steam mills of Messrs. LONG & WHITNEY, near
the KNOWLTON HOUSE: A small stream puts in here affording good boomage
for logs. Three miles farther brings us to a remarkable ridge of high ground
crossing the river, affording almost the only commodious place for crossing
in high water, to be found between Little Bull and Pointe Bas – to wit:
DuBays Trading Post, now known as the new village of EAU PLAINE. Here the
Little Eau Claire on the East and the Little Eaux Plaines on the West,
bring their treasures tributary to the new village. A remarkable ridge
of high, dry land lies above the last mentioned stream, on the west side,
affording an almost natural road far into the interior, and broaching the
great sugar tree district of farming lands; on the Little Eau Claire are
fine mills and excellent timber; both pine and hard-wood. Twelve miles
further, brings us to Stevens Point, passing A. Brawley’s new steam mill
and boom on the east side, a mile above the town. This is the lower terminus
of Steamboat Navigation, just at the head of the Shaurette Rapids, being
the uppermost of that great chain which reaches nearly to Pointe Bas, a
distance of about sixty miles. In the eddy just above the village all the
rafts from above are accustomed to tie up and make a thorough fit out previous
to entering on the great chain. This circumstance has contributed in a
considerable degree to make the town of Stevens Point in the first place
-- tho’ other causes combine more recently to its maturity and growth.
SHAURETTE RAPIDS break over a ledge of sand stone and granite, with a natural
fall of 3 1/2 feet. A permanent dam is thrown across the River, forming
an excellent waterpower, occupied at present by MORRISON’S Lumbering Establishment.
The lumber passes over on a SLIDE, midway of the Dam.
CONANT’S RAPIDS is two miles below Stevens Point; it offers a first
class waterpower, occupied by the extensive Lumbering Establishment of
Messrs. Dale, Carson & Robinson. -- Just below these Rapids, comes
in the beautiful Plover River on the East. It is a never failing stream,
fed from spring brooks of the purest water. The stream rises in Town 30,
N.R.11 E., and is 50 miles in length. On its head waters is found the very
best of hard-timbered well watered farming lands; while further down, it
excels in the most choice Pine. It has three large lumbering establishments
on it, producing great quantities annually. Just below the month of the
Plover, and opposite the village of Springville, the Wisconsin takes an
abrupt turn to the West, and shoots quite across Ranges 8, 7, & 6,
into Range 5; taking in the month of Mill Creek in its course on the north
side. This is a considerable stream ri side (??), of several hundred feet
in length. At the second, and most remarkable of the two, some 6 miles
below the former, the river makes a frightful descent in foaming rapids
through a crooked, rocky chasm of 60 feet only in width for 6 miles, the
water raging and foaming at an unknown depth, and dashing from rock to
rock in indescribable fury and wildness. This chasm appears literally to
have been cut down by the waters through an immense adamantine wall, three
hundred feet in height! The mind is forced to contemplate this as a huge
BROKEN DAM, which, before the chasm was made in it, must have completely
arrested the noble River, and set it back in an immense Lake, 60 or 70
miles long, quite up to the foot of Grand Rapids. This idea is strengthened
by the comparatively level and rather marshy character of the country between
the two points, comprising a great part of Adams County. Through this terrific
Thermopylae all the lumber has to pass; and although dangerous in the extreme,
it is done by the hardy pilot with the utmost SANG FROID. Between Point
Bas and the Dells, two very heavy tributaries come in from the west: to-wit:
Yellow River and the Lemonwier. The former heads in Town 26, Ranges 1 &
2 W. in the great sugar districts: but a little further down, it has immense
pine forests, and it, annually sends out many millions to the markets below.
The Lemonweir reaching its arms more than half way across to the Mississippi,
and has a valley of most delicious farming lands, all fully occupied and
settled The same should be remarked of the lower part of Yellow River.
In general it may be said of ADAMS COUNTY, that consisting mostly of warm
openings and prairies, it early attracted immigration, and now ranks almost
with the old Counties of the State, in population and character. In 1856
Juneau County, consisting of that part on the west side of the river, was
set off from Adams. New Lisbon is the County Seat.
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